Modifications part 2
Have you read my disclaimer if not click here
Well you have written out your goals now you need an idea of how to get it.
I'm not going to spell it all out for you and no I dont provide advise I'm not a qualified mechanic but I can give you a guide of what to look for you need to talk to profesionals to get proper guidance and advice. This will fill you in so you dont look like a complete fool that they can take to the cleaners.
make sure you read this
You must have faith in your tuners ability!
Does he understand Skylines ( or what ever car you have) can he fault find will he spend the time with you to map out your power plan ( offer to pay him for his time to do this if necassary ) is he an enthusiast and lastly will he keep a dead line? Modifying a car cant be done overnight in alot of cases but you want a workshop that if they say 2 weeks it means 2 weeks not we will start it in 2 weeks, and they pull your engine out and the car is sitting there for 2-3 weeks with nothing being done. Can he tune the engine management that you choose? lastly get a written quote of how much its going to cost and what you need. Would you build a house with out getting a written quote? Order and pay for parts and make sure they are there before you drop your car off. There is nothing worse than being told well I'm waiting for the such and such to come and your car is sitting there. Sorry I got side tracked but these things are important and most of us forget this because we are so excited about getting a faster car. now back to the good stuff.
The mild to warm tune ie low 13 second 1/4 miles in a Nissan Skyline gtst's fitted with rb20 or rb25 engine the figure might alter a bit but they are a guide..
You should do a full exhaust from the turbo back if possible try to used the japanese stuff for 2 reasons 1. the fit and build quality is fantastic they take very little time to fit and never bump and clunk.
2. They generally have guaranteed performance gain because they have been extensily tested and if your stuff doesn't perfom you go broke. ( haven't seen many big japanese tuners go broke have you?)
Yes aftermaket is better here I recommend aussie made as they are that much cheaper and the quality is fantastic.
size 600 X 300 X 76 is all you really need up to 450hp to give you an idea the big ones are needed for much higher hp and can cause lag
at lower power out puts of say 300 -380hp. mandrel bent piping is good use the same diameter as stock there ar no gains to be had by going bigger infact you could possibly have power losses as you need to maintain pressure. When you fit you new cooler make sure you get all your intake piping cleaned out of oil and there is generally a build up in there and its better to start fresh. why because an small amount of oil in you piping can cause detonation to occur.
Question are large Intercoolers legal generally they are but in some states you need a permit also some states like Victoria only allow one intake modification if you get done by the epa.so its ether pod fitler or cooler pesonally I'd take the cooler.
Air intake mods ie pod filter cold air intake etc. We have all heard of these at some point. The factory air box does a very good job but some times when fitting a cooler the factory air box must go so we go to a pod style air fiter. Oiled versions like the K&N type are generally very good and washable etc but they are generally illegal so I recommend going for a paper one like the apex or the cheapie I have.
Boost control here is where you need to look at your budget and see what you need there are 3 ways of boost controll one with the standard waste gate actuator you can get stronger ones which aloow you to run higher boost all the time. great if you dont fiddel and know what boost you want also they are leagal cause the police cant tell that you car is boosted which effects emissions hence gives them a reason to give you a defect.
Bleed valve this is like having a tap on a hose connected to your turbo which allows you to chane the boost settings of your car.
They are good because they are cheap they are bad because they can give your car boost spikes which can cause problems the boost goes to high and damages the ceramic turbo. or causes other issues. a well desigened and set up one can and does give reliable service.I use a bleed valve for boost controll. But I would prefer an modded wastegate actuator casue I dont play with my boost levels often.
A bleed valve is illegal and should be kept hidden if possible.
EBC or electronic boostcontroller.
This is the thing that we all want some can afford ot other cant I'm in the latter group.( Donations execpeted:) )they allow you to adjust you boost in cabin and also can allow you to adjust the boost setting in each gear for the expensive ones . They range in price from $400 aus to up to $1200 aus they aren't cheap but provide very good controll.
These are also illegal to keep this in mind I bet the guy in shop didn't tell you that!
At this point you are saying ok low 13 second 1/4's here I come but unfortunatley you will be dissapointed high 13's are possible. but the chances are you car wont run well at any higher than around 12 psi cause there is a boost cut and it will be running very rich. Also the intercooler is optional @ this point
As I have heard so many times before what do I do now is crunch time you have a few options and you need to think long and hard again do you really want those low 13's or high 12's or not.
If The answer is no go out and by an s-afc from apexi or get you ecu remapped so that you can get those air fuel ratio's under control.
The apexi s-afc super airflow converter this device allows you to add or take away fuel because the factory ecu cant adjust for such big changes in the air mass that is being fed to your engine.
This in itself will give you another power boost don't chase the pure power figure ask the guy to set your air fuel ratio to no more than 11.8 to 1 this will give your car relability and power. This should be done on a dyno and if possible on the road after to give it a proper check. Get you timing checked and your plugs gapped to 0.8mm cause if you just threw in stock plugs the gap would be to big and the car will run very rough and break down with the higher boost. This should give you a fast responsive car. lsatly at this point make sure you are using good oil and change it every 5000 klms max regardless is the oil companies says you can use it longer. you should not have to change you airflow meter or injectors or even fuel pump f you using your stock turbo. as these are adequete. power would be around 150-170 rwkw may be more depending on the dyno. remember the tune is the most important part of this and any modifications. if you did some fine tuning and use soft drag specific suspension and sticky tyres 13 mid second 1/4 miles aren't impossible only improbable.
So you want that low 13 high 12 second 1/4 mile how do you get it?
Well you have the basics from above and your itching to go that bit further now comes crunch time. the above mods would cost you on a budget $3-4k aus alot of cars that come from Japan already have some or all of theses mods.
A list of the items needed in no particular order this will follow at the end. of this section.
1. Engine Managment
To gain the best control over your cars engine you will need an aftermarket ecu that is generally adjustable. The state of tune for your car will change over the coming months having adjustable engine management allows you to buy things in stages, as the budget allows. This would be one of my first purchases after the cooler ,exhaust and boost controller. It will be a major purchase so do your home work ask you tuner then get different opinions. most of them aftermarket ecu's are good but some have advantages over others the one I prefer for the rb25 is the power fc why because its plug and play this helps cause your car can be pulled back to stock fairly cheaply. There are other like motec, microtech, ems, hawk, sds,fcon etc. from my experiance the power fc is a good allround package for the Nissan Skyline. There is also the option of getting your stock ecu rewitten but the number of places that can do this are limited. If you have faith in your tuners ability then his choice is often the best one as he has experiance with this type of system and can give you good results. allow beteween $1500-2500aus + a little for engine management and inital tune. This will save you from sticker shock later.
2. The little things Injectors Afm's fuel pumps. (Quite a bit of additional information can be found on my parts and info page)
Your stepping into the big league now there is no time for the squeamish you need to know and understand why you are doing these thing so you don't get any surprises.
To achive a mid to high 12 second 1/4 mile you will need to be making 230-250 rwkw in an R33/R34 with an rb25. In an R32 you will need 210-240 rwkw (because these cars are lighter).
you airflow meter will be maxed over the limit, your fuel pump has no hope of keeping up and you injecotrs are at or have passed 100 duty cycle.
All of this has occured because you have strapped or should I say bolted a much bigger turbo to what the factory had ever intended these things to cope with. If your using an an Apex Power FC these upgrades are realivly painless the same with most other ecu's.
If you require a bigger Air Flow Meter (afm) here are 2 options the main one is the airflow meter from the z32 300 zx these are good for over 500 hp the other is from an q45 nissan infinity these are rare so I wont go in to detail about them. basically the z32 afm bolts straight where the old afm was you adjust some settings on the power fc and away you go
Next you need to upgrade your fuel pump the main replacement is the bosch 044 fuel pump and this or the other 936 ( I think) bosch intank pump are the upgrades. If your budget wont allow bigger injectors an adjustable fuel pump regualtor will allow you to run a higher fuel pressure which should give you some additional rwkw. ( your are better to get the bigger injectors but I know we all dont live in a pefect world).
This is a nightmare in its self but the answers are out there. (my injector page aims to make it simpler click here to get there)
The rb20 comes with 270 cc top feed injectors good for around 300 + hp
The rb25 comes with 370 cc side injectors good for 400+hp.
These little beauties are expensive there is no really cheap way to get around it and infomation is hard to find. yur turbo might be good for 550 hp but if you have small injectors your limited to the amount or fuel they can supply. Injectors for the rb20 can be found from the rx7 series 5 these are also top feed high impedance and can flow fuel for over 550 hp.make sure you get a set that is matched and flow tested. your ecu will need needed to modify the injectors settings
The rb25 uses side feed high impedance injectors these are expensive. $200+ each for straight fit one but you can use the rx7 ones if you get a fuel rail made. This decision has to be discussed with your tuner and your wallet.
Turbo's which one?
|standard r33 turbo||HKS 3037 capable of 480 hp the front||HKS 3037 capable of 480 hp the rear|
Thats the question on everyone's lips I cant make selections for you but I can explain some of the differences and direct you.
The standard turbo on the rb25det can be hiflowed to make 450 hp or so they tell
more to come very soon 4/11/02
Part 3 of mods click here
© http//meggala.com This cant be reproduced with out permission.
see disclaimer on first page
© http//meggala.com This cant be reproduced with out permission.
see disclaimer on first page